Patagonia is the southern most tip of the South American continent. In order to get there from Santiago you must take a couple hour flight. Living in Chile and being so close to Patagonia, I knew that it was going to be my one "must-do" trip while down here. So I booked a round trip ticket to Punta Arenas from Santiago for about $200, a good deal! After I booked my ticket and told my buddy Crystal what I was planning on doing down there, she booked one along with me. Our plan for the trip was specifically to visit Torres del Paine National Park. Most pictures you see anywhere of Patagonia are taken at this amazing place! So in order to adequately see the park you must hike. So we decided to do what is called the "W Circuit." The W is a trek that is in the shape of a W, that is a total of about 80km for the entire trail. We only had about 3.5 days to see it all so we were a bit rushed. So we packed up our "mochillas" spanish for backpacks, with 4 days worth of food, all the warm clothes we owned, a tent, sleeping bags and mats (because we were camping of course! Much Cheaper!)
When we entered the park on Tuesday morning it was pouring down rain and very cold. We waited to board the catamaran that would take us across the lake to where we would begin the W. We arrived at about 1pm in the afternoon, it was pouring down rain, windy and cold. We headed out to set up camp. After our tent was adequately set, we headed off for the first leg of the trail, 11km each way, to see Glacier Grey and the icebergs. Besides the awful rain and wind and clouds, what we could see was incredible. It was the first time I have ever seen an iceberg and a glacier that goes right into a huge lake! Really amazing! We then headed back down to camp in the pouring rain, we are now sopping wet, shoes, jackets and all! Fortunately there is an octagon room called the kitchen where campers are able to hang out, cook meals and dry off. We stayed inside for as long as possible! When they were closing down we made friends with the workers and ended up drinking wine with them in the bar and after a few bottles of wine and pisco sours, Crystal and I ended up being able to sleep in a luxury tent with carpet and mats for free! Night one was a success! We were warm and dry, major plus!
Day two, the middle part of the W. Before we head out, our friend from the night before was working the breakfast shift in the restaurant and hooked us up with a huge free meal! We then packed up our tent and headed to Campamento Italiano, about 2 hours and 7.6 km. It was an overcast morning, no rain, and perfect hiking weather. We could just begin to see the mountain Paine Grande and the teal colored lakes. We made it to Italiano and dropped our bags at the shelter and headed up Valley Frances. This hike was 5.5km each way and about 2.5 hours each way. When we began, this was the most difficult part of the hike so far, but we had dropped our packs so we were doing ok. We got some great views from the look out of the glacier before the clouds rolled in. Within 15 minutes it was a monsoon. The hardest rain and wind I have felt at the same time in my whole life. There were parts of this trek I thought I would maybe die....but we made it back to the shelter sopping wet once again. We could ring water out of ever layer of clothing.....soaked to the bone. So we loaded up our packs and headed on to the refugio where we would camp. This trek was another 5.5km and 2.5 hours away. The weather began to clear so we began to dry. However, the wind was not letting down, there were points where Crystal and I were physically knocked down to the ground by the wind, some 100km an hour! The wind was causing a hurricane over the water! We just barely made it to the refugio before getting completely drenched once again. At this point we were inside drying off, dreading putting up our tent...so we decide not to. 3 other peoples tents have broken and blown away in the wind at this point....so we end up being able to squeeze into a big tent with 3 Chilean hiking guides! Not the most comfortable night of sleep, but we were warm and dry and never had to put up our tent!
Thursday we woke up to sun and blue skies, FINALLY!! It was more than we could have ever asked for, and we appreciated it so much coming from the storms we had just weathered for two days! So we headed to our next refugio, Chileno, were we would camp that night. The journey was about 11km and 5 hours of basically all up hill. This is were we began the ascent to the Torres, the main attraction of this national park. We made it to the refugio at around 330pm and the workers there told us to continue on to the lookout because the weather was good and who knows if it would hold for tomorrow. So we pitched our tent, left our bags, and continued another 5.5km straight up! At one point we were scaling a rock field of huge boulders to get to the lookout. Through snow, sun, wind and rain we finally MADE IT TO THE TOP!!! It was the most amazing feeling to know that we had done it! The sign that read "End of Trail" was very symbolic to Crystal and I, we had really done it! It was the hardest experience of my life, but the most rewarding at the same time! So we enjoyed the view, took a lot of pictures, the sun was out and patted ourselves on the pack for a job very well done. We then hiked back down to the camp where we waited to cook our meal. Turns out the cook liked us a lot and gave us this amazing left over pasta with chicken from their dinner! Crystal and I and our two friends from Cali and Colorado literally downed this 12lb pot of pasta! Then off to our tent, which we ACTUALLY slept in the third night!!
Friday we woke up, packed up our things and began the journey down. It was at least 6km all down hill which at this point was very hard on our knees, each step was a painful jab to the knee. Once we made it to the Torres Hotel we continued to walk 7.6km on the road to the entrance of the park. Friday again was a sunny, warm beautiful day. We definitely lucked out on weather the last 2 days. And after 80km of hiking, we successfully completed the "W" in the Torres del Paine National Park in Patagonia!
What an incredible experience! I learned so much about myself those 4 days and appreciate so much more in life. At times I felt as if I could not take another step, but pushing myself to finish was a goal I never thought I could achieve. I am so proud of myself for kicking ass on this trek and now am one of the few people in the world that can say I successfully completed the "W" in 3.5 days! And after doing the trek and exploring one of the most beautiful places on earth I can only recommend that you yourself visit the Torres del Paine National Park in Patagonia Chile and see it firsthand. It is incredibly worth it!
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